Sunday, August 10, 2008

Egypt 101

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Many people have come to Egypt armed with a travel book, "Lonely Planet" or maybe "Rough Guide", only to be disappointed with their trip. Sure these books give you a lot of good information, but don't explain or clarify everything, and certainly don't provide advice in dealing with problems, so it's not advisable to rely on them solely.


The first and most important step you need to overcome is to dispense any preconceived notions. The experience you are about to embark on will be like no other. A journey into a different place in time, the operative word being "different" of course! With that out of the way, every encounter will be an adventure all on its own, so relax and enjoy yourself!

To get things started let's do some history! Egypt has always been recognized for being the world's most ancient existent state. Being at the crossroad between the Middle East and North Africa, this unique geographical location, has invariably made Egypt the bridge between Asia and Africa. Egypt also overlooks the Mediterranean so linking it to Europe too. Over the years this land has been occupied by the Greeks, the Persians, and the Romans. And during its conquest by the Arabs it was ruled by the Fatimids (969-1171), the Mamluks (1250-1517), and the Ottomans (1517-1798). It then went through 150 years of occupation by the French and British colonial rule until the revolution of 1952 that finally returned the power to Egyptian hands. But every new rule that came along, rather than destroy what had been conquered, opt for building a new city, just upwind from the old one. This makes Egyptians of special nature as they have acquired throughout the years the customs and habits of the different regions the country belonged to. Egypt has been cited in the three holy books and has been witness to Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Indeed, one of the joys of Egypt is that its historic areas are still vibrant, living spaces and not open-air museums. The physical remains of a thousand years of history, being conquered and reconquered by different groups, are the bare essence of its charm. The past here is more a state of mind than a historical fact and that, ultimately, is the way in which Egypt is truly overwhelming.


One of the first things that will arrest your senses, beside the heat, is Cairo's chaotic rhythm of the traffic and people. Egyptians seem to be a rowdy lot, but they never miss an opportunity to laugh at a joke. Nor do they miss on an opportunity to lend out a hand or point out directions; even with very broken English everyone is eager to improve their English regardless if they know the answer to you question or not. Egypt is a safe country, since tourism is a highly valued industry and security is high especially around busy touristic areas. Street crime is rare and the crimes reported in the press would be family dramas or con deals of some sort. So open you eyes and mind, and if you're organizing your own excursions be prepared for the occasional swindle.

"El salamo Alaikom" (or peace be with you) can be used all day as a verbal greeting. And before any form of social interaction, as a basic code of etiquette, greetings are expected, even to perfect strangers. Like in most Mediterranean countries, Egyptians are emotional by nature, loud and use their hands and faces to complete the theatrical effect of the words. If you're male don't be surprised if another man holds your hand or forearm. Egyptians are comfortable with less personal space between them and the person they are talking to, a show of intimacy. Unlike in the West this is in no way associated with homosexuality. In general Egyptians are a conservative people. Egypt being over crowded, with people living in very high population densities they are accommodated to this forced proximity. It is hard to decided whether, despite or because of this crowding, there is segregation by gender, which can be seen in having two queues (one for men and another for women) or separate cars on trains.

'Baksheesh' is an integral part of any Egyptian workers life. As wages are low, workers rely on tips from foreigners and locals alike. But since you’re a foreigner, many poor people will consider you rich no matter what part of the world you come from, so stock up on change. It also helps to learn the phrase "la shokran" (No thank you). You can also use the same phrase with someone who is trying to sell you something, and if you forget "la shokran," just say it in English, and walk away. It definitely works better than "emshi" (go away), which appears as advice in some travel books because it could be taken as an insult. Guide books also warn travelers of the hassle of buying from local shop owners. This is an exaggeration. Yes they may call for you to come into their shop but a firm and polite "la shokran" is more than enough to do the trick. All the same you should be prepared to bargain for anything you buy, and don't get abusive to the trader, he's only trying to feed his family. It’s easier to haggle with your currency and credit cards out of sight, and stored separately from your Egyptian pounds (LE), if you can show you have just a few LE on you. Souvenirs are better bought from Khan El Khalili (the old bazaar in the Islamic district), at better quality and prices.

It is advisable to arrange for a private guide. This can easily be arranged through your hotel, and is not at all expensive. They are very useful at the Cairo Museum since many of the artifacts are not labeled and the place is enormous, they can save you time by showing you all the relevant exhibits. Besides it’s a fast and sure way to learn from an Egyptian first hand about the country and the life style of its people.

Although Egyptians dress in a modern manner, they are conservative even in their attire. And not all women are veiled. Even though some women are veiled for religious reasons it is still a matter of choice. Egyptians can accommodate foreigners dressed skimpily, which is not a good idea though if you dislike being ogled at. There is no need for women to cover their hair, shoulders and legs. Nonetheless longer, loose clothes will protect you from the sun as well as show your respect for local customs. Since the floor of most of the sites is either sand or uneven stone it is advisable to wear sensible footwear too.


Please don't drink from the tap water! You can shower and wash your teeth with it but bottled water is cheap and plentiful so use that for drinking. And don't forget to drink enough, in this heat it is easy to become dehydrated. Always carry around enough, you maybe charged outrageously for a bottle at temples and sites. There's a lot of Sun in Egypt so make sure you always have a high factor Sun protection on. It's also useful to travel with a medical- kit. Include plaster, safety pins, antiseptic cream, diarrhea and headache tablets.

The hotel front desk is a reliable place to stop and ask about any query. It is also the best place to book or just ask for advice for an excursion like a felucca trip (sail boat in the Nile) for example or camel/horse rides at the Pyramids. They know the best taxis and tour companies, and will be happy to assist you, saving you time, money and hassle. With most hotels you can arrange to keep safe some of your luggage free of charge (or at a very low cost), if you are on a multi-centre holiday and intend on returning to your first hotel before your departure.

On another note it is also useful to know that internal flights must be booked and confirmed in advance. The conversion rate is far better in Egypt, so don't exchange all your $, £ and Euro at home. Exchange enough to get you along on the first leg of your trip, and exchange the rest when you get to Egypt. Don't forget to always have enough change for the "baksheesh".


Relax! You do not need to take any more precautions in Egypt than you would traveling to most Western countries. People are very kind and respectful. No question that it’s a different culture, but that doesn’t make it wrong, just different and a truly amazing experience at that.

About the Author:
Gawhara Hanem
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Egypt Tours

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